Cutless bearing

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Cutless bearing

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Iain C
United Kingdom
181 Posts

Posted - 08/02/2012 : 14:59:28
OK, stupid question, is this a "standard" Sabre item or does it depend entirely on the engine installation?

Mine seems to sit in a pokey-out housing with a bolt vertically above and below the shaft. There is a bit of play so I was going to replace it before the boat goes back in the water...any pearls of wisdom gratefully received about whether it warrants changing...removal...suppliers...installation.

Thanks!
Iain C
United Kingdom
181 Posts

Posted - 11/02/2012 : 20:12:49
Hmmm...

So it all came apart very easily. The bearing was actually just rubber, and hexagonal inside...similar to a beneteau apparently. However, big problem in so much as the shaft is 1" and the OD is 1 7/8". And no one, but no one, does this size.

Current plan is to go to my friendly rudder-bearing turning engineering shop and get them to turn me a sleeve which is a very tight fit in the housing and will allow me to use a readily available 1 1/2" OD cutless bearing next time...unless anyone has a better idea?

sabre27
178 Posts

Posted - 12/02/2012 : 09:25:50
The last time I changed Corsairs bearing, they will last for many years if the shaft is smooth, I just unscrewed the housing and took it to the local marine engineers who replaced the bearing and I picked it up a couple of days later and put it back on.

No agro. Easy.

Paul Howard. S27OA Technical Officer.

P.S. There is an article on the cutlass bearing holder securing screws in the latest 'Handbook Update' which myself and the team are currently stitching together. Beware, do not over tighten!

Iain C
United Kingdom
181 Posts

Posted - 20/02/2012 : 12:49:15
Turns out the bearing was a Stuart Turner.

However, I have a bigger problem in that the bottom screw in the cutless bearing housing just turns when I put it back in. There seems to be a void in there about 5" long, with no access whatsoever to the nut that used to be on the end from the engine room side. It's also quite wet which suggests it has been full of water for some time.

I think I've convinced myself that even if the 2 machine screws fell out, the boat could not sink, and sikaflexing the dodgy one back in should be OK, or even filling with epoxy and drilling/tapping if it came to it. The top one is fine and the cutless bearing housing is a very snug fit on its threads anyway.

By the looks of things you could get access to this "void" by holesawing through the top of the box, just behind the stuffing box, but I am reluctant to do this if it's not necessary.

Has anyone experienced this and can this void fill with water? I guess in some ways it must, otherwise the whole stuffing box is a pointless exercise!

robbyc0
United Kingdom
25 Posts

Posted - 14/07/2013 : 14:05:34
Iain I appreciate it's an old topic but did you ever find out if the bearing is standard at 1" and 1" 7/8 outer?

Putting a ruler on my shaft it looks 15/16 to me but I think it's 1" because a 1" shaft anode fitted very nicely. I will need a new bearing very soon - around 1/4" play!

lewis
United Kingdom
3 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2015 : 18:48:03
cutlass bearing
I got a little bit more than what I was bargaining for !
Remove splitpin and removed prop
Removed the two screws holding cutlass bearing housing (so far everything going to plan) started unwinding cutlass bearing housing,turned rather easily by hand ( in fact to easily )

the cutlass bearing housing came clean out still attached to the propeller tube, when I presented this to the engineering shop to get a new bearing the look on his face indicated there was something severely wrong and informed me that the tube was not meant to come out

so working on the assumption the housing just unscrews and comes off. The propeller tube should be permanently fixed in?

I was thinking of drilling some staggered holes in the deadwood following the line of the prop shaft and injecting something like six10 Epoxy to rebond the shaft in place

Any advice would be appreciated
Edited by - lewis on 07/03/2015 19:05:40

kcalco
United Kingdom
58 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2015 : 19:11:59
Hi
I read somewhere that you could put 2 much larger bolts though at 90 deg to the prop shaft. Each bolt being drilled and tapped across it width for the housing screws to pull up on. In fact they could be just rod. Then resin over the screws each year, eventually the tail housing becomes part of the boat and no longer feels like it attached to the boat with bungy cord.
Regards Ken

Mikenfi
United Kingdom
40 Posts

Posted - 13/03/2015 : 11:35:02
John at cellar marine is modifying a new sdesign to fit our old cutlass bearing. It is a stuart bearing originally. I think it will cost us approx £200+ postage.

He is a great guy i reccommend speaking to him as he seems to know his stuff.

Hope this helps.

looking4
United Kingdom
26 Posts

Posted - 17/03/2015 : 13:18:30
Hi all having read all your input I thought that It might be helpful to pass on some info re fixing a loose cutless bearing.this info is drawn from an article in PBO 516 dec 2009.
It was describing a method using flat pack furniture engineering.the Sabre in the article was Sabravon.the article gives a good description of the method used with good photos and diagram.i do have the original article and would happily discuss it with anyone who would be interested.
Roger
Celerity- Ipswich

ray24
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