Hull finish restoration

[Sabre27Admin]

Iain C
United Kingdom
181 Posts

Posted - 31/08/2009 : 22:14:03
Right then, work on Summer Girl starts next weekend. Whilst we still have a bit of the summer left, I want to get the exterior looking decent and get some protection (polish on hull, varnish/oil on the wood) before the winter sets in.

The topsides are very dull, and have some light crazing visible (bottom is epoxied so no worries there).

Having had a read round, my plan was as follows. Wet and dry the whole topsides (probably by hand), fill the crazed aread with Plastic Padding gelcoat filler and then polish with a car polishing machine (£12 from Aldi, brought Katherine's Europe dinghy up a treat!).

Questions...is this OK? Is that gelcoat filler a decent colour match? What's the best polish to use?

Next job was the woodwork...are the grabrails/strakes etc most likely to be teak or something else? I'll probably remove the strakes and sikaflex behind the hull/deck join as per the article in the handbook, what's the best stuff for treating the woodwork?

The other thing I was thinking of doing was to paint the non-slip areas of the deck in grey Interdeck...I think it looks attractive if done neatly and is good underfoot. Has anyone tried this and what have the results been like? Has it worn well?

And lastly, antifouling. If I get to the stage that I can do this before the winter, is it worth it? Will it deteriorate if exposed to frosts/cold weather? And what do people recommend (preferably from the International range?)

Many thanks in advance!



Iain C
United Kingdom
181 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2009 : 11:14:20
Sorry, another quick question...I read about a kind of sealing paint that needs to go on the exterior of the hull around the keel (fin) to hull join. Summer Girl has had the keelbolts changed and an epoxy tar coating...is this likely to have been done already, or does it go over the top of the epoxy? If so, what do I use?

Thanks again,

Iain

Shamal
United Kingdom
41 Posts

Posted - 08/09/2009 : 13:44:36
Hi Iain

I'm no expert on topsides, but we had good results from International rubbing compound, followed by polish. Removing staining with oxalic acid, made into a stiff liquid with cornflour and kept moist. We did try a cheap polisher, but elbow grease worked better and we're tempted to spend a bit more on a polisher this winter. We've never tried sanding gelcoat - to be honest i'd be worried about removing too much, then the only option is a paint job.

gelcoat filler is OK but not perfect - but then we have a light cream gelcoat, not white.

Our wood work is all teak, simply treated with garden furniture restorer from B&Q and teak oil from the same place - after a good wash and light scrub in fresh water. Now we're nearing the end of the summer its getting a bit grey - so we'll just spend an hour or two repeating the process which should be fine for the winter.

Lastly the antifouling we used has a life of 3 months before launching - best to check the tin. What works best depends on the area / water you're in so probably best to get local advice.

Hope that helps

Regards
Neil

Neil & Alison
'Shamal' - Titchmarsh Marina

sabre27
178 Posts

Posted - 09/09/2009 : 00:08:04
Welcome to our forum Iain,

The other thing I was thinking of doing was to paint the non-slip areas of the deck in grey Interdeck...I think it looks attractive if done neatly and is good underfoot. Has anyone tried this and what have the results been like? Has it worn well?

We did exactly that, many years ago and it has been very successful! First we sanded off the 'points' on the non slip moulding using a domestic flatbed sander as I considered that the paint would wear away quickly from the points. (It is usually put on 'flat' surfaces)

This was a good move and the first application lasted 10 years before we recoated. Another 10 has passed and all is still well! I went to the trouble of masking all the areas which took some time but have never regretted it as the application is so quick and easy and it looks great!

Does Summer Girl leak salt water? Taking off the teak rubbing strake is a serious job! Check under the strake, especially mid ships forward, are there gaps in the sealer, (it is quite wide in places) can you push a thin bladed knife past the sealer against the GRP and into the biscuit tin overlap? If the answer is 'no' I would wait and see what happens when you start sailing her. If you want more info on this, use the telephone.

All the best,


Paul Howard. S27OA Technical Officer.

Iain C
United Kingdom
181 Posts

Posted - 11/09/2009 : 23:02:01
Thanks for the replies people. I've not replied earlier as I've been working on the boat (staying on board) prior to starting a new job and things have been progressing well.

The coachroof was very dirty and stained, and a combination of various wonder polishes, elbow grease and polishing machine has brought it up very well. I'm going to hold fire on the deck paint for the time being...the mouldings are still very good and it would be a shame to sand the points off.

Hull gelcoat was cosmetically past it on closer inspection...so first coat of Toplac has gone on today and she looks great...I will put another coat on but it's hardly worth it! Damaged rubbing strake repaired, and I'll Sikaflex both sides...I don't think it leaks anyway. Antifouling/boot top paint on order, heads connected, 95% of the electrics are up and running and in theory after the engine seacocks are reconnected she could then get wet again.

Back down next week, will update in due course.

2 weeks ago...



Now...



Iain C
United Kingdom
181 Posts

Posted - 08/10/2009 : 20:47:38
OK so it's a funny time to launch but hey...




Plenty more of a truly excellent weekend are here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/23284229@N ... 391334077/ I just wish absent friends had been there to share it.

nickbd
United Kingdom
205 Posts

Posted - 08/10/2009 : 21:27:18 nickbd's nickbd's
Fantastic job on the hull - it inspires me to get going on mine...

==============
Nick B-D

1974 Fin Keel
Yanmar YSE 12