United Kingdom
9 Posts
Posted - 26/05/2008 : 14:38:45
Hello,
I need to replace my original windows due to corrosion, has anyone purchased new aluminium windows for their boat? I'd prefer to replace with aluminium rather than perspex. Can anyone suggest any suppliers?
Regards
John
n/a
38 Posts
Posted - 26/05/2008 : 23:52:25
Hi John,
We replaced ours on 'Corsair' more than over 28 years ago and they are still in fine condition. The company that made them closed and moved from Essex to Liverpool somewhere but I have lost track. His name was Terry Bond. Plastic is certainly cheap, but....you get what you pay for!
There are a number of reputable manufacturers around but right now I have to leave home for a week for the onerous duty of putting my Sabre into commission prior to the South Coast Rally on the 14th, and I won't be able to help until I'm back.
I'll be surprised if you don't get some more helpful replies as many of us have renewed windows in the last few years.
All the best,
Paul Howard. Tech Officer S27OA
Edited by - n/a on 26/05/2008 23:54:48
ken endean
United Kingdom
52 Posts
Posted - 02/07/2008 : 15:42:16
John,sorry I missed your posting (I have been away and am about to go away again). Try Technautic Marine Windows on 01621 782964. They made our windows and they have been pretty good BUT if you decide to use their internal clamping ring system, rather than external screws alone, do insist on all stainless steel components - their standard female dual screws are chromed brass, which can cause trouble. Good luck. Ken
jezza
United Kingdom
5 Posts
Posted - 12/02/2009 : 19:50:06 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Click to see jezza's MSN Messenger address Send jezza a Yahoo! Message Reply with Quote View user's IP address Delete Reply
I'll second Ken's comments. I liked Technautic's quality and found them helpful. What problem did you have with the brass nuts, Ken?
Fair winds,
Jerry Jones
Sea Spear, Plymouth
keith
United Kingdom
118 Posts
Posted - 12/02/2009 : 23:02:07
I ordered a set of windows from Technautic's a month ago and will be picking them up in the near future. They are running about five to six weeks delivery due to lots of work!
Bear in mind that some of the radiuses on the Sabre windows are near the limit that they can make. Oh and they are not adverse to pound notes.
joeschofield
19 Posts
Posted - 13/02/2009 : 11:07:40
Can you give us an idea of the cost?
ken endean
United Kingdom
52 Posts
Posted - 13/02/2009 : 11:42:15
Concerning the chromed brass nuts (actually female dual screws - think top hats): I fitted the window frames on foam strips rather than mastic sealant, so that they would be easy to remove and reseal if necessary. This leaves some voids around the frames and these can collect condensation. Not normally a problem but pure fresh water can induce 'poultice corrosion' of aluminium under certain conditions and I guess that the presence of brass (under a chrome skin but in electical contact with the aluminium) may have been enough to trigger corrosion. After I swapped the dual screws for satainless ones the problem disappeared.
Note that dual screws do produce a much greater clamping force than self tappers into GRP.
Ken
Mike T
67 Posts
Posted - 17/02/2009 : 18:21:33
Hi there,
I am also in the process of replacing my sabre windows from the old corroded aluminium one to new perspex ones. if anyone has any tips on how they have done it this would be very much appreciated.
I am planning on using 6mm thick tinted perspex held on by pan head self tapping screws all the way around the outside of the window using sikaflex to make them watertight. then on the inside i am going to reline the sides with foam backed vinyl stuck to the fiberglass with a small (wooden?) surround around the window to hold the vinyl on and hide the edge of the fiberglass.
If you can give me any other ideas or better ways to do this it would be great.
Regards
Mike
(InshaAllah)
phillmat
United Kingdom
18 Posts
Posted - 19/02/2009 : 22:05:03 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Click to see phillmat's
The windows on 'Minerva' are plastic held on with self tapping screws. We use normal sealant. If you use stikaflex it is visable through the window and re-sealing the windows will be a pain as the stikaflex dosent come off.
Mike T
67 Posts
Posted - 19/02/2009 : 22:36:33
thanks phillmat
have you used pan head or countersunk self tapping screws? and when you say normal sealent do you mean clear high modulus silicone? also did u use a spacer between the window and the fiberglass?
mike
keith
United Kingdom
118 Posts
Posted - 27/02/2009 : 00:01:02
Picked up the new windows today, very nice! Now to fit them. Heres where i need some advice, the manufacturers don't recomend Sikaflex or similar as if you ever want to get them out to reseal you have a big problem, I tend to agree with this having had to remove some fittings bedded on polyurethane mastic which ripped the gelcoat of!
Anybody have any leads on a good non setting mastic?
jezza
United Kingdom
5 Posts
Posted - 27/02/2009 : 08:32:45 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Click to see jezza's MSN Messenger address Send jezza a Yahoo! Message Reply with Quote View user's IP address Delete Reply
I used Seamseal CV in a cartridge, which I got from a local caravan dealership. http://tinyurl.com/d68kgt
Worked very well for us and has behaved for a couple of years. You do need to clean up with white spirit afterwards and I think if I were doing it again I'd mask the GRP up to the edge of the window before I fitted them on sealant, so that the squozen out mess can just be peeled off on the tape. If I recall correctly, I used this in addition to a foam or deformable mastic tape, which I think came with the windows from Technautic. Did they not supply any? Thinking back, I used the tape for the main seal and the cartridge material was really a second line of defence.
Fair winds,
Jerry Jones
Sea Spear, Plymouth
phillmat
United Kingdom
18 Posts
Posted - 27/02/2009 : 23:21:42 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Click to see phillmat's
On 'Minerva' a clear aqua sealant was used. Pan head slotted self tappers where used around the window. A screw every inch or two. I haven't re-sealed the windows in three years but now one is leaking so they will all get done before the season. Ill let you know how easily they come off.
phillmat
United Kingdom
18 Posts
Posted - 01/04/2009 : 19:12:30 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Click to see phillmat's
Hi there. Well the windows on Minerva are done. all came off easily and are now re-sealed, 30 mins per window and good for another 3-5 years if the sealant is up to it, maby more. They also came off easily.
joeschofield
19 Posts
Posted - 01/04/2009 : 19:18:06
Can you put up or send pictures?
phillmat
United Kingdom
18 Posts
Posted - 06/04/2009 : 20:15:16 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Click to see phillmat's
when i am down the boat next ill take some for you, well ill have to figure out how to post them but how hard could it be??
joeschofield
19 Posts
Posted - 06/04/2009 : 20:26:50
Or just send to skywings at bhpa dot co dot uk. Simple!
Many thanks.
Regards, Joe Schofield
john
United Kingdom
9 Posts
Posted - 26/06/2009 : 15:47:12
Hello,
received my new windows from technautics today. Many thanks for all the helpful replies John.
joeschofield
19 Posts
Posted - 26/06/2009 : 16:04:09
Do let us see pictures when you've got them fitted, an perhaps before fitting.
Joe Schofield
keith
United Kingdom
118 Posts
Posted - 02/09/2009 : 10:13:27
After a fair bit of research i have been in touch with Hodgsons sealants, and they recomended a Butyl sealing tape 1mm x 19mm wide grade 0390 stockists are a bit thin on the ground round here but they kindly sent me a free sample enough to do the lot, Their seamseal CV & BR grades i got from a company called Fix Fast very good service all round. Let you know shortly how i get on fitting them!
keith
United Kingdom
118 Posts
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 16:41:39
Progress on windows, due to varying thickness of cabin side i had built up the edges of the window aperture with CSM & sanded it all back to constant thickness. The mastic sealing tape went on well but when the screw goes in from the outside the tape binds around the screw & balls up causing it to be dragged out of the joint. Also the tape being black leaves an unsightly line. First window now has to come out again with a filthy clean up job.
It is vital to dry run each window first as the smallest misalignment causes the backing strips to catch on the edge of the frame stopping it from going in properly. Also the Sockets are prone to slipping in the backing strips if tightened too much. All in all the first one was a disaster, the air was blue & i hate interscrews with a vengeance. And i am supposed to be good at this!